Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello - questions please.
Getting set to run in my FG 90R. Locally, Klotz Original Techniplate (100% Synthetic.) is not available.
The Klotz R-50 (100% Synthetic) is available, but I'm not certain this is an acceptable break in oil. Not certain either if a Syn/Caster blend is acceptable for this engine???
Would someone care to recommend an acceptable oil for the Saito so as not to void the warranty???
The recommended oil for the Moki and Valach is the Amsoil Dominator with regard to the blow by properties - which is what I use in these engines.

Also - Please recommend a good 3 blade prop to keep the motor at 6000 rpm on the ground??? (23x10 or 23x12) ???
The plane, most likely, will be an A6M5 Zero.

Regards - J Tab

dunk

My Feedback: (153)

Since I don't have the second nipple I was going to do the same on the bottom nipple. As long as you pre lube the crank bushing you should be good. Mine has not been ran yet and it sure sounds rough turning it slowly by hand. Anyone else experienced this?

darod07

If your engine is without mods I suggest to use only what Saito recommends.
If none of this is available in your place I would take only oil with similiar parameters in technical data sheet of original Klotz (see attached)
3 blade Biela semi 23x10 will be perfect combo for Saito + Zero. 6100rpm on the ground and very scale appearance in the air.

planenutzz

and remove the rocker covers and lubricate in in there on all the moving parts.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

darod07,
Thanks for the info. Just to make certain, does the link below reference the correct Biela Semi 23x10?
Of course, one answer leads to more questions. Regarding the Saito Ignition - I plan on using the Ultra IBEC HV to power the ignition through the receiver. Do you or anyone have experience with using the IBEC on the Saito Ignition???
Thanks - J Tab
BLACP3SS2310 80-90cc Biela 121 : 3b Biela SS Corsair : Aircraft International

darod07

I purchased mine directly from the maker's site:
https://www.smigla.com/offer3ENGsemi.html#gsc.tab=0
for me prop from your link looks the same.
Regarding ignition, I can't tell if your idea is ok. I use li-po and always plug them directly to the module through kill switch.

planenutzz

why complicate it like that? Use a separate LiION or LIPO 2S and control it via an opto coupled kill switch.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yes, I use the Tech Aero IBEC on my Saito and its been flawless.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Any Suggestions? Been running in my new FG90 this weekend. I have the prop drive flange timing upgrade and would like to install it. On gear pullers I have been able to find locally the claws that are too large to fit behind the hub. The is only a 1mm gap between the hub and the case. Any suggestions on how to pull the prop drive hub ????? I may try some heat but only as a last resort because it may ruin the magnets.

Thanks - J Tab

ForcesR

Jaketab, this is what I use on all of my Saito engines to pull the drive flanges, I purchased this puller at Walmart several years ago. The claws are 3mm thick but I filed a taper that is approximately 1mm thick at the end of the claws which was enough to get behind the drive flanges and with a bit of heat added to the drive flange it will popoff with little effort while turning the removal bolt. https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/2-Jaw-B...RD1M6AL18CE16F

Roger

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Roger,
I have the exact same tool I got from Advance Auto. (It proved to be cheap China junk.) Yes, I cut and tapered the claws..The arms distorted and would not pull the hub. I'm afraid that too much heat will destroy the magnets.
What I'm looking for now is a bearing separator to use in conjunction with a puller. Tomorrow I'll contact CH Ignitions for advice.
Thanks- J Tab
The pic shows the 1st attempt before I cut and tapered the claws and tried pulling from the rear of the hub.

planenutzz

Morris Mini Motors have the puller but will be expensive with shipping. Should be abloe to get one locally I would think. I modified one to make the claws narrower and sharper so I can get them in the slot.

planenutzz

can somebody show me how they are mounting their temp probes to the heads?

jimkron

I wrap mine around cylinder #1. I usually put the sensor in the front of the head near the top in between the fins.
I cut the sensor cable and solder a JST connector in-line. This way I can disconnect and wrap around the head easily.
Finally, make the cable as tight as you can around the cylinder head and wrap some electrical tape around the wire to keep it tight to the backside of the head. Shrink wrap would work also.

Easy.

Be sure to baffle the cylinders, use a 15:1 oil mixture, and ethanol free gas.
I use this gas on my FG 84 and FG 90.
https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel/optima

Hope this helps.

jim

jimkron

We fly the TopRc Zero (93") with the Saito FG 84 and a Biella 22 x 12 3-bladed prop. 6100 on the ground BUT it can unload in the sky to 7000 rpm. No reason to rev that high. Nothing good happens after 6600 rpm in the air.
Temps are in the 230F degrees at full speed and 215F at cruising. As you know, these engines are expensive. Don't push them if you don't have to. I would shoot for 6600 in the air and keep the temps under 235 on a hot day.
I would be curious how the 23" prop perform in terms of revs and temps.

jim

dunk

My Feedback: (153)

There is a set set screw that needs to be removed, guessing you've already removed it. I wouldn't think they are on there that tight. Getting ready to do mine so I'm hoping my puller gets the job done. Did you have any luck with CH on removing it?

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Found the right tool to pull the prop hub thanks to one of our club members. It took quite a bit of pulling to get the hub off. I'll know tomorrow if the timing upgrade makes a difference. ​​​
The directions for the CH Hub state that no timing tools are necessary. Just to replace the pick-up sensor in the same position.

The instruction manual does not mention the spark plug gap. The NGK-CM6 factory plugs are gapped at 0.016". Possibly a slightly wider gap may help ignite the lower cylinders?????

planenutzz

generally heating the hub with a heat gun will assist removing the hub.

jimkron

Ray English did the hub change on my FG 90. He gaps plugs at .016. My engine runs flawlessly.

jim

ForcesR

That's 100% correct planenutzz! I have removed removed 6 hubs over the past several years on my Saito engines using this cheap puller and with a bit of heat from a heat gun set on high the hub pops off fairly easily every time.

Roger

planenutzz

Another 950mL put through the 90. I now have the MMM rear induction fitted. Seems to run smoother and for most part temps are even up to about 4200RPM then #2 gets hot, other are around 118C and #2 will get around 135C.
I'm still running 91 octane with Klotz KL-200 @15:1, needles are rich.

So far this engine has about 6 - 8 L through it.

I have also noticed that the main needle does bugger all. I can run it at full throttle ~ 6250RPM and wind the main needle out and it does not make top end rich at all and RPM stays the same. Winding the slow needle out does make it run rougher but overall top end RPM is about the same.
Obviously I am doing something wrong with this thing. .

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

About 2.5 L of run-in time so far. The new prop drive flange to change timing is installed.
Same here regarding the high needle. It seems to do little. Turning out the low needle will make the engine go sloppy rich. Closing the low needle will lean out and then stop the engine.
Temps are still low on cylinders 2 & 3.
The engine will turn 5900 RPM with a Biela 3 24x10.
My engine starts so easy I can't imagine why anyone would need an electric starter.

J Tab

planenutzz

wish my temps were low but we are also in summer here with about 30C during the day.
Same for the start, prime and one flick and it starts.

planenutzz

Ran the engine again yesterday and it had a bad miss till it got over 4500RPM. I re-did the tappets, valves for you septics, cleaned the oil from plugs, they are new.

Tried tuning it out without success then about 8pm I checked the voltage on the 2S LiION ignition battery, 5.6V, it had about 6 hours of use on that charge. I suspect that is the problem.

Will be checking the timing later today to ensure it is set at 30 degrees. If not I will fit the MMM timing hub and adjust to 30.

jimkron

Same thing happened to me while tuning and running tanks on a test stand with a NIMH. Manual suggest 2-3s LIPO.
Why take a change on voltage. I only use 3s Lipos in the air.