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Hello,

I have a brand new DA60 bought a few years back. i installed it on a plane and have not been able to have reliable tuning (quite unusual for a DA engine as i have many that run very well). the DA 60 is acting erratic and not consistent. i only had a couple of flights on it. on 2nd flight, engine quit.

Ignition battery was checked and changed just in case but engine still acts totally erratic.
Very disappointed about this particular engine and don't really know what to do.

Please let me know what are your thoughts as it has also been a while that this plane with DA 60 has been sitting and problem unsolved).

Thanks in advance,

Regards,

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

I have a friend who had a similar problem and after considerable research found the air hole through the reed block for the pump on the carb was blocked/leaking. He fixed it by going to an outside carb pump tube like is on the DA 50. Problem solved.

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Whiskey Bravo,

Thanks for answering, but could you please elaborate more on the subject as I am not quite sure how to do this mod.

Regards

All Day Dan

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Try rebuilding the carburetor. Dan.

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

As Dan says first rebuild the carb. If that does not fix it check the rather circuitous route DA used through the reed block on the 60 to operate the pump. It may be partially blocked or a gasket is leaking etc. It may not be necessary to go any further.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

It's not hard to do. Just drill and tap two holes, install two fittings, and connect them with fuel line. I agree though; rebuild the carb and have a look at the pulse hole situation first. An even slightly stiff regulator diaphragm can cause aggravating running problems, as can a distended fuel pump diaphragm.

AV8TOR

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Thanks for the advice, could the ignition module be also a possible cause for this behavior?
On another note have also read that "timing" should also be fully retarded for this engine, how can I check and eventually achieve this?
Obviously would like to attempt fixing 1 thing at a time to be able to nail the problem.

Thanks again for your help
Regards,

All Day Dan

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Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

Can't check a DA ignition that way.😕

All Day Dan

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Thanks Whiskey. I should have thought about that. How can it be done? Dan.

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

The DA ignition only fires if the prop is flipped fast enough to intentionally be starting the engine as a safety feature.
DA tells you to set timing bring the engine up to TDC then move the hall sensor so it is just touching the leading edge of the magnet.
On a DA hall sensor there is an embossed line on the front of the sensor which lines up with the pickup on the underside, it just makes it a little easier to hit the leading edge of magnet.
You could also set it full retarded and run it, record the rpm then advance a little at a time until it no longer improves. Then slightly retard and leave it there.
I have owned several DA engines and prefer being able to set the timing exactly where I want it using a piston stop for TDC and degree wheel. If a DA ignition fails I would replace it with one similar to rcexcel etc.
There may be a way using a timing light not unlike those used on an auto engine to check it however I have not researched it.

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Whiskey Bravo,

Please excuse my ignorance, but for a fully retarded timing, do you move the sensor anti clockwise or the other way around?
Thanks a million

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While looking at my old correspondence (problem has been unsolved for quite some time) i found the email in which i related the facts encountered with my DA60. email was sent to DA but never got a reply back even after multiple reminders. Here it goes and hope you are able to assess/help and suggest what to do.:

Quote:
I have a brand new DA60 bought a few years back. It was installed on a WM 50cc Commander along with KS tuned pipe.

On second flight (breaking in) the engine quit in midflight and bearly made back to the runway hitting my LG. although Repairs were minimal, it took quite a long time to have the chance to try this plane again.

Last week we had a very rough time trying to start the engine and it was impossible to tune. We found out that spark plug was loose after removing the cowl.

Engine was then tested and seemed to work properly after setting the needles (much more open than stock settings). I did not fly that day as it was already dark.

The following weekend I refitted the cowl and tried to fire the DA60 but it would not start. We had to put a few drops of fuel inside the carb and use the starter to have it fire.

No matter what we did it would quit passed one 3rd of throttle stick.

Again cowl was removed, and High needle opened generously probably around 3 turns. Engine was started but here again it would go to full throttle but when stick was brought down to half throttle it would quit.

Unquote

Could this problem be related to carburetor or ignition bearing in mind that this is a brand new engine we are talking about.

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

When looking at the front of the engine clockwise is advanced.
It still sounds like a fuel delivery problem with a dirty carb. or leaking and or plugged pulse delivery problem to the carb as I alluded to in my first reply. Disassemble and thoroughly flush/clean the carb. Then install a carb rebuild kit check and seal the engine, reed assembly block, and carb gaskets upon reassembly with a SMALL amount of gasket sealer. While disassembled this will also provide you the opportunity to give the reed pedals a good visual inspection in the unlikely scenario there is a chipped or cracked reed. Hope you find your issue.

dubs1946

Before rebuilding anything, Eliminate if its an ignition problem, swap out plug, sencer,module and any cut off's or switches you have. You state you have other DA's so use those. If its still the same start looking elsewhere.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Though anything is possible, from the info given, I hazard a best guess pointing to a fuel problem with a likely suspect being the regulator diaphragm in the carb. They get stiff and won't work properly after once being used then sitting for a while.

I do not ever recommend using any type of gasket sealer in or around carbs. It is completely unnecessary and can cause serious problems.

Lastly, DA has excellent customer service on their engines, and will make it perform perfectly for very low cost if you care to send it to them.

AV8TOR

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Thank you all for your valuable inputs. I would have gladly sent engine and ignition to DA but at least would expect receiving a reply from them and a green light to ship it to them.
Although I live overseas and it would not be cheap to expedite and receive engine, it would however spare me a lot of time trying to find out what the real problem is.

Knowing that this DA60 comes from the first batches ever produced, would you by any chance know if there was a recurrent know issue that had been addressed?

Thanks again
Regards,

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

I experienced erratic behavior with my first very early 60 which DA solved by having me fully retard the timing. My later versions did not demonstrate the issue.
As relates to using a sealer, I have used Hondabond, Permatex gray or equivalent on gaskets and case halves etc. for years as a prophylactic measure where an air leak was suspected. It does not harden so it does not exacerbate later removal/install. This is common SOP on motorcycle engines and others as well. Having said that using it SPARINGLY is paramount as any excess could potentially restrict pump passages among other issues. I have had success with this method for 50+ years YMMV. It should not be necessary however I have found it helpful on occasion. If you don't feel comfortable doing so DON'T.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I have always used Yamabond on crankcase halves of engines such as Volkswagen, Rotax, motorcycles, etc. Permatex is an excellent brand too, and Loctite makes a good case sealer. I don't have experience with Hondabond, though I am betting it is a good product. But the distinct possibility of even the tiniest spec of it getting into the very small orifices of a carburetor and causing problems prevents me from using any type of a sealer on carbs. Even when you think you have used very little, some squeezes out laterally that can fragment.

Then there's the people that gob on sealers like silicone everywhere on an engine!! I can't tell you how many times I have disassembled an engine to repair and found the oil pump screen full of bits of jelly-like silicone!

R.J. Rose Ocala FL

Why not? I did. Set the timing with both the DA ignition and the RCXcel ignition. The DA magnet has opposite polarity compared to most other engine, and the Halls Effect sensor has to match that polarity.