Calrl Goldberg Tiger 60 Build
#52
Thread Starter
Started to snow! We're expecting about 5 or 6". Everything's covered and looks pretty...
I wanted to beef up the front portions of the fuselage halves, so I cut and fit 1/16" Birch plywood which I glued to the inside halves of the fuse. This will give me the strength that I will need for both the engine and the wings. The last photo shows how the firewall will fit on the ends. 30 minute epoxy will be used to attach the firewall to the sides of the fuselage.
In case you're wondering what I kind of glue that I use, that would be Titebond II, I hardly ever use CA. When I need the strength of epoxy, I always use 30 minute epoxy.
I wanted to beef up the front portions of the fuselage halves, so I cut and fit 1/16" Birch plywood which I glued to the inside halves of the fuse. This will give me the strength that I will need for both the engine and the wings. The last photo shows how the firewall will fit on the ends. 30 minute epoxy will be used to attach the firewall to the sides of the fuselage.
In case you're wondering what I kind of glue that I use, that would be Titebond II, I hardly ever use CA. When I need the strength of epoxy, I always use 30 minute epoxy.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-09-2017 at 01:37 PM.
#53
Thread Starter
Even though I got a nice tight fit between the wing tube sleeve and the fuse, I am still going to install these lite ply rings that I made. These will be epoxied into place a bit later.
1/4"x 1/4" triangle stock is fitted inside the fuse for greater strength and to help take out tail flex that all Tigers have. You can also see that I filled in the last bottom sheeting opening of the fuse, that should also help.
1/4"x 1/4" triangle stock is fitted inside the fuse for greater strength and to help take out tail flex that all Tigers have. You can also see that I filled in the last bottom sheeting opening of the fuse, that should also help.
#55
Thread Starter
Thanks Tom, I hope to eliminate as much of the tail flex that I can.
The shown block clamped is the landing gear mount. 1/4" Birch ply was used (not supplied in kit), the choice of using good 5 ply Birch verses using a solid piece of hardwood, the plywood laminations make it a stronger more durable choice. The faint line that you see on it is where I'm placing Former "A". The original former was scraped as the dimensions on the front has changed. By placing it directly over the center of the landing gear block will give good support for those not so perfect landings... the block will get pinned and triangle braced later. (Epoxy was used to glue the landing gear block into position.)
Note:The wing tube has not yet been glued into place until Former "A" is secured into position. This will ensure that the sides of the fuse are square, then I can epoxy the rings that I made locking everything in place.
The shown block clamped is the landing gear mount. 1/4" Birch ply was used (not supplied in kit), the choice of using good 5 ply Birch verses using a solid piece of hardwood, the plywood laminations make it a stronger more durable choice. The faint line that you see on it is where I'm placing Former "A". The original former was scraped as the dimensions on the front has changed. By placing it directly over the center of the landing gear block will give good support for those not so perfect landings... the block will get pinned and triangle braced later. (Epoxy was used to glue the landing gear block into position.)
Note:The wing tube has not yet been glued into place until Former "A" is secured into position. This will ensure that the sides of the fuse are square, then I can epoxy the rings that I made locking everything in place.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-11-2017 at 06:40 AM.
#56
Looking for clues to where your going and not finding any. No wing anti-rotation pin holes, no wing bolt holes for interior bolts. I know you like din connectors for wing electrical and you mentioned fuse is a bit wider (or changed some) at some point "so", I'll just watch and see what's next. Nice clean work as usual.
Leroy
Leroy
Last edited by Leroy Gardner; 12-10-2017 at 09:28 PM.
#57
Thread Starter
Leroy, I think some day I would like to play a game of chess with you because you like to think two steps ahead... the sign of a good builder!
You're right, you don't see any anti-rotation pins as of yet or wing bolt holes! Here is my plan of attack: First, I want to get the main portion of the fuse built with the wing tube in place. Next, I will build the wings and slip them on the wing tube, at this point all I'm looking for is the wings to pivot on the tube. I want the wing incidence to be set exactly at zero, so I'll set up my wing incidence gauges on both uncovered wings and from the outside of rib 1, using a pencil, I'll mark the exact locations of both the anti-rotation pins (2) and wing bolt holes through the holes in the rib onto the sides of the fuselage. I prefer to do it this way rather than use a ruler to measure theoretical zero wing incidence. Hope this made sense! If not, I will be sure to document each step with pictures for clarity.
You want to be black or white Leroy?
You're right, you don't see any anti-rotation pins as of yet or wing bolt holes! Here is my plan of attack: First, I want to get the main portion of the fuse built with the wing tube in place. Next, I will build the wings and slip them on the wing tube, at this point all I'm looking for is the wings to pivot on the tube. I want the wing incidence to be set exactly at zero, so I'll set up my wing incidence gauges on both uncovered wings and from the outside of rib 1, using a pencil, I'll mark the exact locations of both the anti-rotation pins (2) and wing bolt holes through the holes in the rib onto the sides of the fuselage. I prefer to do it this way rather than use a ruler to measure theoretical zero wing incidence. Hope this made sense! If not, I will be sure to document each step with pictures for clarity.
You want to be black or white Leroy?
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-11-2017 at 07:28 AM.
#58
I was out servicing my tiger for winter storage and removed the canopy to check connections, almost forgot how much stuff was under there, matter a fact I couldn't find the ignition battery and had to scratch my head to remember where I put it, well it's strapped to the under side of fuel tank removable mount. There is another removable mount plate on top of fuel tank, which holds it in there, engine module and fiber optic kill switch is mounted on it. I couldn't put those last items behind the fuel tank because I wouldn't be able to get at the front wing bolts. All that was thought out before I made the changes that required raising the front deck and making the top hatch longer, choke is also in there control'ed by a lever out the left front side. I think I mentioned in my build that I cut 3" off the canopy in order to make it all possible.
All that made me think of your's and if maybe your wing bolts would be in a tapered pocket built on the root ribs with top access. It's fun to be able to see the challenges done by another when putting that gas engine in this plane. You are just getting started and are very good figuring these things out and are a skilled builder so I don't think you'll have any problems.
I will post two pictures just to show how tight and close things are inside that narrow pretty body of mine.
Leroy
All that made me think of your's and if maybe your wing bolts would be in a tapered pocket built on the root ribs with top access. It's fun to be able to see the challenges done by another when putting that gas engine in this plane. You are just getting started and are very good figuring these things out and are a skilled builder so I don't think you'll have any problems.
I will post two pictures just to show how tight and close things are inside that narrow pretty body of mine.
Leroy
#59
Thread Starter
Thanks for posting those pictures Leroy. I always enjoy seeing pictures of it (especially ones that I've not seen before), you did such a great job on her...It's helpful to see that there isn't that much room in there, and with the additional items a gas engine requires, space gets tight real quick. A good plan is definitely in order, to that end I have decided to mount the gas tank over the wing tube. This will not only give me the space I need, but it just makes sense to place the weight of the fuel over the plane's CG. The top of the tank will be visible through the clear canopy which I like because it allows me to easily monitor the fuel level in the tank while filling. I have put a lot of thought into this and I believe that I've got a good plan in order.
Leroy, with the heat that the ignition module creates, and having it surrounded by foam may shorten its life. Does it get hot in there?
Photos #1-2 Former "A" is glued into place and you can see the support that it provides for the landing gear mounting block beneath.
Photo #3 Rings for the wing tube are epoxied into place. Note that the top of each ring is flattened to provide support for the future gas tank mount.
Photo #4 A square placed anywhere down the sides of the fuselage shows the same results...
Leroy, with the heat that the ignition module creates, and having it surrounded by foam may shorten its life. Does it get hot in there?
Photos #1-2 Former "A" is glued into place and you can see the support that it provides for the landing gear mounting block beneath.
Photo #3 Rings for the wing tube are epoxied into place. Note that the top of each ring is flattened to provide support for the future gas tank mount.
Photo #4 A square placed anywhere down the sides of the fuselage shows the same results...
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-12-2017 at 03:08 AM.
#65
Thread Starter
Today school was cancelled because of snow...nice! I'll make good use of my time in my workshop.
You can see the platform that will hold my gas tank. To keep the weight down the base was made from 1/16" birch ply. I made it removable because below the tank will be where I'll mount the battery. The platform was secured using four 2-56 cap head screws. Shown is a 12 ounce tank that I had in my shop, don't know if I'll use it or opt for an 8 ounce tank. Once I decide then I will cut out the platform to accept two hook and loop straps that will hold the tank to the base.
You can see the platform that will hold my gas tank. To keep the weight down the base was made from 1/16" birch ply. I made it removable because below the tank will be where I'll mount the battery. The platform was secured using four 2-56 cap head screws. Shown is a 12 ounce tank that I had in my shop, don't know if I'll use it or opt for an 8 ounce tank. Once I decide then I will cut out the platform to accept two hook and loop straps that will hold the tank to the base.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-12-2017 at 08:34 AM.
#66
You getting testy in your old age, Maybe it's the snow, you get to try that new snow blower on it, I saw that storm headed your way, figured you'd get some of it, Boston sure did. We are cold and grey here, no snow yet but have a feeling it's not far off.
Do you use some tri-stock to hold your tank in position, I've never used a bottle before but see more of them being used. Mine is a 14 oz, engine will run 20 min with fuel to spare, 8 oz may not be the best choice if you don't use the 12 oz. bottle.
Keep up the good work, fun build wouldn't you say.
Leroy
Do you use some tri-stock to hold your tank in position, I've never used a bottle before but see more of them being used. Mine is a 14 oz, engine will run 20 min with fuel to spare, 8 oz may not be the best choice if you don't use the 12 oz. bottle.
Keep up the good work, fun build wouldn't you say.
Leroy
#67
Thread Starter
It sure is fun to build this plane, but with the changes that I'm making it does present its share of challenges Leroy. I know that you went through the same thing, but it does go together quickly! I find that I spend most of my time waiting for glue to dry so I can move on... As far as tank size, I will probably go with the 12 oz. tank, but I don't remember the last time I flew a plane for 20 minutes. I think I would get tired after 10 minutes lol. Reminds me of a time at the field when a friend took off and was flying around, he was just at about half throttle when his throttle servo decided to sh*t the bed. That plane flew forever, everyone took a turn at flying giving him a break. It finally ran out of gas and landed safely... We all laughed at how long it stayed in the air.
It's snowing pretty good at the moment, I don't know how much we're expecting, but I would guess we already have about 5 inches. Looking forward to using that snow blower too!
On the tri-stock, do you mean under the mounting rails? If you did, then the answer will be yes.
It's snowing pretty good at the moment, I don't know how much we're expecting, but I would guess we already have about 5 inches. Looking forward to using that snow blower too!
On the tri-stock, do you mean under the mounting rails? If you did, then the answer will be yes.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-12-2017 at 11:10 AM.
#68
Vince the tri-stock I mentioned would run along the bottom sides of the fuel bottle making a cradle of sorts and allowing a nice path for a cable throttle control. Mounting your engine lower may require rotating your carburetor 180 deg to make connections easier, then maybe not.
I forgot to address any heat problems with the ignition module, no I don't have any. I maintained some distance between the fire wall and fuel tank and module to allow air to circulate through the spark plug hole and out two holes in the former over the landing gear plate and matched them up with the same holes in the front canopy mount, it gets mildly warm is all. You made a good point not to bundle it up to much.
I don't worry about a dead stick fall out of the sky, this plane does not stall and drop, it keeps on flying while losing altitude and will float to a landing, even dropping the flaps it doesn't balloon or pitch up at all. I can't say enough about how tame it flies, it's a real joy, yours should fly as well, it's a well designed air frame and takes the changes very well.
Leroy
I forgot to address any heat problems with the ignition module, no I don't have any. I maintained some distance between the fire wall and fuel tank and module to allow air to circulate through the spark plug hole and out two holes in the former over the landing gear plate and matched them up with the same holes in the front canopy mount, it gets mildly warm is all. You made a good point not to bundle it up to much.
I don't worry about a dead stick fall out of the sky, this plane does not stall and drop, it keeps on flying while losing altitude and will float to a landing, even dropping the flaps it doesn't balloon or pitch up at all. I can't say enough about how tame it flies, it's a real joy, yours should fly as well, it's a well designed air frame and takes the changes very well.
Leroy
#69
Thread Starter
Leroy, this tank doesn't require a cradle, I'll put a strip of hook and loop between the tank and platform and two straps of hook and loop strips that go over the top of the tank at two locations. Besides keeping it in place, the hook and loop tape does a good job isolating vibration between the air frame and tank. My throttle servo and ignition module will be located in the space between the firewall and Former "A". My goal is to keep items like servos and fuel tank easily accessible for servicing or replacement.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-13-2017 at 08:33 AM.
#71
Thread Starter
Here's a little bit of progress to report.
Photo 1 Triangle stock was added to support to the the firewall as well as Former A (epoxy was used). Also visible toward the bottom of the firewall is one of two rail mount supports for the platform that will hold the throttle servo and ignition module.
Photos 2-3 Firewall was pinned to further strengthen the joint. Six 1/8"x 3/4" in length hardwood dowels were drilled and glued in place (Titebond II used).
Photo 4-5 Close up of the removable servo/ignition module platform which is held into place with four 2-56 cap head screws. I want to show you how I secure all of my servos in place. After marking the locations for the servo screws, I drill and epoxied four 2-56 blind nuts into place which provide a bullet proof way to secure any servo. I prefer this method over having servo screws that just bite into wood.
Photo 5 Here the DLE-20RA engine is mounted on the firewall and checked for fit.
Photo 1 Triangle stock was added to support to the the firewall as well as Former A (epoxy was used). Also visible toward the bottom of the firewall is one of two rail mount supports for the platform that will hold the throttle servo and ignition module.
Photos 2-3 Firewall was pinned to further strengthen the joint. Six 1/8"x 3/4" in length hardwood dowels were drilled and glued in place (Titebond II used).
Photo 4-5 Close up of the removable servo/ignition module platform which is held into place with four 2-56 cap head screws. I want to show you how I secure all of my servos in place. After marking the locations for the servo screws, I drill and epoxied four 2-56 blind nuts into place which provide a bullet proof way to secure any servo. I prefer this method over having servo screws that just bite into wood.
Photo 5 Here the DLE-20RA engine is mounted on the firewall and checked for fit.
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-16-2017 at 03:28 AM.
#72
It's coming along nicely Vince, good place for throttle servo. With the side frames on your engine mount can you get at the needle adjustments easily, I had to grind on mine some. Really enjoy your clean fit-up, it's always nice.
Leroy
Leroy
#73
Thread Starter
I've been going back and forth working on my Bravo, then on my Tiger, I'm glad that I have a large build table!
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-16-2017 at 12:31 PM.
#74
Thread Starter
Photos 1-2 Last bit of bracing for the landing gear mount block installed.
Photos 3-4 1/8" Lite Ply was used to close off the bottom of the fuselage. Even without the top of the fuselage installed, I am pleased with how solid the fuselage has turned out...
Photos 3-4 1/8" Lite Ply was used to close off the bottom of the fuselage. Even without the top of the fuselage installed, I am pleased with how solid the fuselage has turned out...