chris923

My Feedback: (53)

Put a dab of silicone on each screw when you put them in. Don't use CA, when you have to remove the screws the silicone is easily removable. CA, is not.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

I was not referring to the spinner cone mounting screws, rather the balancing screw that goes into the back plate.

Cheers,

kevarc

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks all,
Checked the balance on the original spinner and it had a definite heavy side.
I have ordered a new cowl and a Dave Brown spinner.
I think I will put a rubber washer between the cowl and the mounting block also.
Thanks again.
Kevin

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Wow, this website sure is a mess anymore.
To answer your question about lose cowls...get some of these and use.
Don't but rubber inside the cowl.
RTL Fasteners - Hobbies, Radio Control, ( R/C or RC ), locknuts, metric screws, servo screws, socke: Rubber Backed Bonded Washers

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

kevarc, using rubber washers as stated, will allow the mounting screws, when tightening down of screws, to deform the fiberglass around screw holes causing stress and eventual cracking. Best to add fiberglass re-enforcement on the inside of the cowl at the contact points of mounting holes. in this case, make sure ALL vibration causes are eliminated as much as possible and use a method of isolating engine vibs. like using an iso. mount.
i've used small grommets with bushings made from brass tubing of correct size or use servo grommet bushings, (to allow tightening of mounting screws without over crushing the grommets) which will then absorb a lot of any "SMALL" vibs. u can also take the time and fabricate an internal mounting plate fitted to the inside of cowl and then it mounts with fiberglass re-enforcement strips and then mount the cowl with the grommet setup then no visual screws on the outside of the cowl will show. a little more work but well worth it, stronger set up and much clearer. JUST REMEMBER TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE COWL TO REMOVE ANY RESIDUE OF MOLD RELEASE THAT WON'T LET ANYTHING TO GLUE WELL WHEN ATTACHING THINGS TO THE INSIDE OF COWL.

anyhow that's my 3 pennies and my scattered mind input!!!!!!!

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

kevarc, using rubber washers as stated, will allow the mounting screws, when tightening down of screws, to deform the fiberglass around screw holes causing stress and eventual cracking. Best to add fiberglass re-enforcement on the inside of the cowl at the contact points of mounting holes. in this case, make sure ALL vibration causes are eliminated as much as possible and use a method of isolating engine vibs. like using an iso. mount.
i've used small grommets with bushings made from brass tubing of correct size or use servo grommet bushings, (to allow tightening of mounting screws without over crushing the grommets) which will then absorb a lot of any "SMALL" vibs. u can also take the time and fabricate an internal mounting plate fitted to the inside of cowl and then it mounts with fiberglass re-enforcement strips and then mount the cowl with the grommet setup then no visual screws on the outside of the cowl will show. a little more work but well worth it, stronger set up and much cleaner. JUST REMEMBER TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE COWL TO REMOVE ANY RESIDUE OF MOLD RELEASE THAT WON'T LET ANYTHING TO GLUE WELL WHEN ATTACHING THINGS TO THE INSIDE OF COWL.

anyhow that's my 3 pennies and my scattered mind input!!!!!!!

shafs

what cav unit were you with. is that a d or h model. the picture look like it could of been taken between 65 to 67.

shafs

I have a request. if someone could help. i am getting a mustang send to me it's already assembled and we need to find out the width of the horizontal stab and the height of the vertical stab.

Thank in advance

spitfire66

The top of the tail (rudder) to the bottom of the fuselage is around 15 inches. The horizontal stab is roughly 30 inches. Give or take an inch on both measurements. I didn't get a level out for precision, but I noticed that you posted this a day ago and needed something to work with.

shafs

Thanks for that spitfire 66. We are making arrangements to send one interstate and its already assembled and the person who sending it is still at the golide on holidays. so he cant send these measurements.

Shafs

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

So with the announcement of Hobbico filing bankruptcy on 1/10/18 I find it necessary to act upon Platt's Law #7. Hobbico owns Tower and the Top Flite and Great Planes brands. With the debt load so high it is unlikely to emerge out of bankruptcy. In my opinion, the only hope for the future of Top Flite Mustangs is that the brand get spun off and sold but if nobody buys it, then it is all over for 1/5th Scale Top Flite Mustangs. Time to implement Platt's Law #7 SCARFOLOGY !!!!

Platt's Laws of Scale Modeling: 7. Live by the principle of scarfology. Things disappear from the marketplace, so scarf them up while the scarfing is good.

Yesterday I ordered a TF GS P-51 ARF from Tower. $585 delivered. It will sit in storage forever as I have 2 others in the shop. But when the day of need comes, I can say I got one! Leo

shafs

I was looking at the H9 60cc mustang but then found out that it's going to be taken off the market. So i was thinking TP GS and i am still thinking that you can still get parts.from tower and heaps of other places.

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

shafs,
I flew with Battery E 82nd Artillery, the only Artillery battery in the US Army at that time that had aircraft instead of artillery. We had 16 Bell OH13S, 4 UH-1H model helicopters, 4 Hughes OH6-A helos, and 6 Cessna O1 Bird dogs. The unit's primary mission was reconaissance and artillery spotting for Army, Navy, and Airforce aircraft, artillery, bombing, and naval gunfire. The 4 UH-1s were used for artillery battery support and emergency re-supply, usually under fire from sniper and mortar fire. My ship carried hot meals, ammo sling loads and replacements for gun crew casualties. We went in to get wounded soldiers for medivac to hospitals and Navy ships for medical treatment.

Our missions were almost always single ship without any gunship protection, we got shot at several times a day, sometimes we went to multiple fire bases in a single flight and received fire at each LZ, going in and coming out. My gunner frequently had to reload our ammo boxes after each mission flight (2,000 rounds for each of the two machine guns). We flew 10-14 hours per day (not continuous, but on demand). Many days we used 3-4 tanks full of JP-4 fuel for the chopper. I did a sheduled inspection about every 2 days on my ship and helped out with the other three UH-1H's inspections whenever I was back at the home base each night. The workload resulted in almost no sleep for the year I was in-country. At various times I was asigned UH-1C, D, or H model Hueys to fly and maintain.

The UH1 in the pictures is a new H model I owned from Jan 68 until I rotated back on June 29. It got shot to hell right after I installed the new hard mounted guns in the picture. I had to make repairs to the collective control tube to enable us to fly out. The tube's clevis was holed on one side and cracked on the other and it separated when the pilot pulled collective pitch to get us away. I used safety wire to tie the 2 pieces together, the pilot looked at the repair and said 'I don't know about that, we better call for a hook.' A burst of sniper fire changed his mind, he jumped into his seat and began starting the engine while my gunner was still on top inspecting the rotor system for damage! We hardly had time to close the engine access panels before he pulled pitch to fly back to Camp Evans, calling for an emergency landing with fire trucks. We didn't need no emergency help and the maintence officer flew it as repaired the next day, all the way to Red Beach in Danang for depot repairs I couldn't do in the field (shot up fuel tank, and bullet holes in the belly and roof). And I made the sniper pay for the damage.

I hated being stuck at home base with no mission because of monsoon weather, we got mortared several times a day and night. There was a 175mm gun battery next to my company area that fired at random 24 hours a day so if I was in my bunk, the concussion from the guns kept me bouncing off of my cot. They were so loud that you really couldn't hear the noise, it was sort of like an incredibly loud honking noise that slapped you around, putting fingers in your ears didn't help, the sound went up your nose to your inner ear and hurt anyway. At various times during missions the pilots would land at a headquarters to get mission orders, when they got out and said 'Be back in a few minutes', my gunner and I would take a nap in our seats until the pilots returned. At first I would go into HQ with the pilots to hear about the missions, but they were always the same, go somewhere to an artillery battery under attack, unload supplies, load wounded, and get out within a few seconds while being shot at, so I just used the opportunity to get a nap.

After I returned from Nam, I suffered from PTSD for more than ten years. It was more than 30 years before the nightmare dreams finally stopped. I still can't watch videos of Vietnam action, but stuff about other wars doesn't bother me. I credit my RC hobby with making life bearable, whenever I couldn't sleep because of PTSD I got up and worked on my models until I relaxed and got sleepy again. I still consider myself fortunate that I got to fly between numerous base changes, the rest of the mechanics had to go by truck (land mines). I was sent to a turbine engine school in Vung Tau over Christmas for 10 days, the only break for me. The other students and I went to the NCO club for entertaiment, the first time there we were invited by a group of Aussie soldiers to join their table for drinking, singing, and to watch the show. We had a good time as I remember, those guys knew how to have fun. I was humming 'Waltzing Matilda' for a long time after that trip.

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

shafs,
After building and flying 5 TF P51 arfs and 1 kit version, then 2 of the H9 60cc P51-D models, I bought the Jerry Bates P51-B with the Vic Catalasan fiberglass fuse and a wood kit with the parts for the glass fuse. I haven't had a lot of time to work on the new plane, but I had it completely framed within a week after receiving the box. It is larger than the TF Mustang with an airfoil similar to the H9 D model (a big plus). The cost of the Bates Mustang airframe is around $750 (with glass fuse) and is a very nice building experience. I am flying now so don't have a lot of time to spend on it but I hope to have it in test flight soon. Vic Catalasan supplies several versions of glass fuse for the Bates Mustang including the A model, Alison powered verson, his moldings are almost flawless with scale panel lines and correct outlines and placement of the horizontal stab (the TF's stab is in the wrong place, but can be corrected with a parts kit). Its size is close enough to be able to use aftermarket details available for other brands.

I am powering mine with a well broken in DA 60 that was pulling my H9 Mustang at around 130 mph with a Graupner 22-12 prop. Guys using other brands of engines have been unable to catch the H9 D model-DA 60 combo and I expect similar performance from the new Bates B model. It is designed to take Sierra retracts but I have on hand a set of Robarts for the H9 D model so I have modified the gear mounts to fit the Robart gear. I will glass the wood wing and tail surfaces to get away from the effects of the sun on film coverings and use silver paint for the final finish as North American did on Mustangs built later in the war. The silver paint reflects the sunlight and heat, maintaining lower temps inside the airframe under the hot Florida sun. I get tired of digging into the airframe to repair burst air lines caused by 100 degree days, or ironing out the wrinkles in the film covering.

shafs

Thanks for sharing your vietnam experience with us, And you were able to experience some australian culture. I have been looking around for a H9 mustang but they are hard to come across in Australia we get a very limited supply here. I in far north queensland and its very tropical. i was reading the H9 Mustang forum and noticed people were using robarts in the H9 mustang.

Shafs

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

shafs,
Both of my H9 Mustangs used Robarts, the first started with electric and was changed to air later when the electric's 10 second time caused problems with the wheel doors. I now have a lot of flights on the #2 H9 P51 and the Robarts are pretty reliable, just not as easy to get into the wing. As for comparing the flight characteristics, the H9 p51 wins in every category. If you can get one, and get it through the quality issues, you'll pick it to fly for fun and for warbird events. It is nice to have a model that is nice to look at, and a blast to fly, even in strong, gusty crosswinds.

shafs

Yes it's a hard call the H9 looks so nice. And it looks very scale like. compared to the TP mustang.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Hey guys,, asking here since there are so many p-51 guys,,,,

Does anyone make a canopy to convert this into a racer? ya know,,Streaga Voodoo etc.

tia

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

scale only for me,
The full scale Mustang racers cut the back end of a stock canopy off, turn it around and mount it in front to get a low profile, low drag solution for racing. Its my guess that you could easily do the same with an RC Mustang's stock canopy. The Stega seems to have the back end of an extended two seat Mustang's canopy (it has the bubble to clear the rear pilot's helmet), with another piece behind.

rossmick

Well I have joined the broken wing group. Made a firm landing on the right gear, got slow and wing dropped off slightly. Notice, I called it firm, it was not a crash. I am very disappointed in the structural integrity of this wing. I have read and done most of the mods and still a failure. Real question here is whether to rebuild this wing or just order a new wing set and do all the mods. I wonder about converting the wing to a three piece setup like the H9 51? This would take a lot of redesign and not sure it would be worth the effort. The center section could be beefed up around the spar to handle the gear. Thoughts.
Plane flew very well, very solid. This has Sierra gear, DA60 and alum wheels and comes in closer to 30 lbs. Fuselage, tail and engine undamaged. Would like to keep the plane but really need a much stronger wing.

chris923

My Feedback: (53)

This thread is full of mods for this wing. They m
need to be done. After the mods you will not have this issue.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

save ur money and the frustration of dealing with the junk wing and order a foam 3 piece wing from eureka aircraft as I did then u can install multi spars and gear set up as u wish!!!!!!!

chris923

My Feedback: (53)

The Mods are not Difficult. They can be done in an afternoon.
1. Open the underside of the wing from servo bay to wing center to expose the shear webs.( save sheeting)
2. Cut 1/8 ply wood to cover over each shear web. Glue plywood over webs. I recommend Hysol.
3. Extend gear mounting blocks with 1/2 sq stock all the way into the spar box.
4. Glue G10 under the gear block and extend it into the spar box
5. Glue gear block into spar box. ( This help distribute the load to the spar box)
6. Glue sheeting back in place. Repair covering.
I have Pictures of this process, But I can't figure out how to transfer them in.

rossmick

Chris923
The wing snapped where the center wing joiner ended. I had installed 1/2 ply between the spars farther out but was not continuous as the ribs ran through. If I would do this again I would cut a joiner that went through the ribs clear past the last rib for the gear. I saw one mod that did ply on each side of the spar, same concept. I wonder when you cut the rib where the gear attaches if it does on weaken that section where you need it the most?
The real problem I have with the 51 is getting it off the ground in a straight line. I always end up veering off to the left. I try slow power and still can't hold it straight, what's the best technique for the 51?
Fujiman
Thanks for the info, I will check it out. I have no experience with foam. Do you have any photos as to how you made it work?

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

rossmick I have built a number o f the Top-flite P-51's over the years . The ARF'S should come in around 20 lbs . The ARC'S come in around 24 to 25 lbs. depending how far you go with it . The stock P-51 ARF landing gear and wing design around the landing gear is not designed to carry that weight . I have flown mine with a variety of engines , both GAS and GLOW . I'm flying one now with an OS-BGX 3500 and have at least a hundred fights on it and have no problems either on grass or hard top runway. . I added approx..6oz. of lead up front and always use the flaps with a little throttle after my last turn and then approach and always land on the mains andfly it to the runway before i pull the throttle all the way back , try to stay off the elevator and hold steady and use the throttle to bring her in. I use this method with all my war birds and it works great . If you have the ARF at 30lbs, there is something out of wack.