CY MODELS La-7//Evolution 160 radial
08-02-2017, 03:53 PM
#77
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That's coming along beautifully, & looks like you did take a bit more off when opening up the cowl? Look as though you did? Looks great , I'm liking this. Thank you for sharing
08-04-2017, 11:26 AM
#89
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So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.
08-04-2017, 11:43 AM
#90
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For the cooling, you see my openning into the firewall. I make an big bore into the below of the fuselage, where the belly scoop is situated. The hot air can exit into the fuselage, and through the side exhaust openning, and around the opening for the Keleos exhaust.
Take care that the up hot air can escape. In your case, the up hot air cannot escape, it forms an hot poached in the up part of the cowling. Do not forget that radials motor give of hot air around the complet cowling... This is my opinion, and experience about radials and cooling
But you make an good job, be continued...
Take care that the up hot air can escape. In your case, the up hot air cannot escape, it forms an hot poached in the up part of the cowling. Do not forget that radials motor give of hot air around the complet cowling... This is my opinion, and experience about radials and cooling
But you make an good job, be continued...
Last edited by warbird04; 08-04-2017 at 11:46 AM. Reason: ad last sentence
08-04-2017, 12:03 PM
#91
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What about a cooling radiator on the belly side for an air cooled radial ? Weird it is...
08-04-2017, 04:07 PM
#93
So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.
Thanks for sharing. I'll have to add this to my build. Keep posting man it's looking awesome!!
08-04-2017, 11:07 PM
#94
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Yes it is the original canopy. Cut away the originals mounting brakets, cut away the rear wood plate, make some finish job, and the job is ok. The two brass tube are 305mm long and 4x3mm diameter. The front bolds are the originals.
For best result, I have cut away the above former in the fuselage and on the canopy, and make a new on both, but 65mm backwards. This allow more space for pilot rooms, you can repositioning the pilot as the original size...
I make the pilot room and cockpit later, I want to finish the LA and test first flights befor I spend a lot time into cockpit work.
For best result, I have cut away the above former in the fuselage and on the canopy, and make a new on both, but 65mm backwards. This allow more space for pilot rooms, you can repositioning the pilot as the original size...
I make the pilot room and cockpit later, I want to finish the LA and test first flights befor I spend a lot time into cockpit work.
08-04-2017, 11:22 PM
#95
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Ok, but where is going the hot air from the air cooled cylinders? Where is the escape?
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.
08-05-2017, 02:35 AM
#96
Ok, but where is going the hot air from the air cooled cylinders? Where is the escape?
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.
I have see this point from the begining, and it is a big problem if you do not want to cut the full cowling with ugly openig.
The American radial Warbirds have all an space between motor cowling and fuselage, and this allow good cooling for us modelers. But the Russian make this différant, and for the models that is an critical point.
In all, I Wonder how the full LA works with cylinder cooling.... I trie to search more infos about this, it is an interesting point to clarify.
08-05-2017, 02:44 AM
#97
I started looking at the work you have done on your canopy...that is an awesome job!! I had not planned on doing a functional canopy but yours looks so nice I believe that I will use your method and do the extra work. Thanks for sharing that with me. I agree with you on the cooling thing with the La7. Everything I have read about the full scale claimed that the cockpit was extremely hot for the pilot that flew it, even in extremely cold temperatures. The oil cooler helped keep the engine cooled down but like you, I think the cowl kept a lot of the heat in and probably was the cause of the overheated cockpit. Those poor guys!!
08-05-2017, 03:05 AM
#98
So, I am back from holidays. I post you some pictures about the canopy. For the sliding canopy, I make an aperture that is 250 mm long, and 3.5mm height. I make 2 sliders with plywood at 130mm long, that has an "T" form, with 5mm and 3mm height, the tickness is 4mm.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.
These sliders are going into the aperture from the Inside, and I fix the canopy with some small screw. It works fine and its simple to make. The canopy is closed with 2 magnets.
You see also my solution about the complete hatch fixture, I make 2 brass tubes with an piston Inside, that hold the hatch in position, and for opening I move the both stem in forward position. In the front, I have the originals bolds, that works fine.