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Sd.Kfz. Preview

Old 12-02-2016, 08:45 PM
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Crius
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Here's a little preview of my next two video projects, the smaller being almost complete. I'm taking a slightly different approach on the traditional build log so we'll see what you guys think once it's done, probably within the next week or so. Then I'm going to try my hand at making an Sd.Kfz. 250 halftrack move along under it's own power.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rcZ1HH2YBw So far it looks like I'll have plenty to keep me busy during the cold winter months ahead.
Old 12-02-2016, 08:52 PM
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Looking forward to the 250 build for sure Gary. If you need any fabrication done, let me know and I can get you Daryl Turner's info. Plenty of members here have had work done by him. He's r/c'd more vehicles for folks in various scales than most of us will ever own.
Old 12-02-2016, 08:59 PM
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Thanks, Bret, do you know if he's done the 250, or if he has parts for it?
Old 12-02-2016, 09:11 PM
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He's be working on and off for years on an all metal 1/6 limited edition 251 kit he's bringing up to his standards. I mean down to making the seat springs, working on it. So he has experience with that size/type vehicle for sure. Probably not direct parts for that kit, but he usually makes his own stuff anyways. No mfg is up to his standards for operation and reliability.

Last edited by TheBennyB; 12-02-2016 at 09:17 PM.
Old 12-03-2016, 11:54 AM
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DT is the mcgyver of rc tanks. He could build one with a stick and some duct tape.
Old 12-03-2016, 01:01 PM
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I thought he needs a Q-tip and a paperclip?
Old 12-05-2016, 02:46 PM
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Nice video Gary, if you are not wanting to use a cordless drill you could use a transmission from a rock crawler http://store.rc4wd.com/ this is what I’m thinking http://store.rc4wd.com/Disruptor-Ult...ck_p_1206.html with a 540 motor possibly 35T http://store.rc4wd.com/Engine-Motor_c_26.html these motors may be a little small for what you need in the 250 so possible an MFA motor and planetary gearbox would work well and cost less http://www.mfacomodrills.com/gearboxes/940d_series.html
Old 12-05-2016, 03:29 PM
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Thank you, R.C., the MFA motor and planetary gearbox look perfect if I'm going to follow the steps of the one link you sent me, where the guy on hobby havoc used the drill motor. I just finished up the P3 so this coming weekend I'll be getting started on the 250 and the first step will be to order the differential and the MFA motor/planetary gearbox. Do you think I should go with the 5:1 ratio, or the 100:1? I think the 516:1 would be too slow, don't you think? I'm thinking since it will run through another differential I should get the 5:1, but I'm not sure so your opinion would help. I still have a lot of studying to do! I'll have to see if I can get that diff he used without having to buy the whole revo. Lots to do, lots to do.
Old 12-05-2016, 03:33 PM
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OK, now that I've checked more I see that box is also available in 27:1 and 51:1 in between 5:1 and 100:1, so the plot thickens!
Old 12-05-2016, 07:27 PM
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Gary a r2 tranny from rc4wd.com is a monster with a 55 turn motor. I have a tonka Winnebago I converted to rc that one of my son's would ride on while it pulled my other son on a trailer. It topped out at a brisk jogging speed and would run for 2+ hours.

Does a halftrak steer with the tracks as well as the front tires?

https://www.google.com/search?q=kyos..._L4GYyaouRM%3A

You could help steer like this cutter brake system

Sorry I don't know how to copy the pic so look at the link
Old 12-06-2016, 12:12 AM
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The reduction will depend on if there is a further reduction in the differential as this will affect the speed also, I take one step at a time first fit your differential with the sprockets mounted once you have this done then the rest is simple, the diff is readily available off the shelf http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/39126...7297426&crdt=0 fitting this is simple you then need to attach this to the sprockets once you have mounted the sprockets and diff then go onto the transmission.
The R2 transmission is quite good http://store.rc4wd.com/R2-Heavy-Duty...ion_p_850.html you also have the ability to alter the gearing via a pinion to suit whatever gearing you want.

As for fitting a break to the diff this can be left until you have the chassis running then see if you really need a break on the diff to help with steering.

Have you tested the plastic to see if its brittle.
Old 12-06-2016, 08:57 AM
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If your going E-REVO diffs, you may want to look at grabbing the bulkheads as well. These are used to mount/hold the diffs in the E-REVO and could help out for mounting points, disregard this if the build thread your going off already has this solved.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-PART...4AAOSwAuZX4Db7
Old 12-07-2016, 04:33 AM
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Hi guys. First, it looks like I'm going to have an excellent "Advisory Council" for this project. I hope you guys will be patient if it sometimes takes me a few days to get back to this thread, but that will usually mean that I'm still researching. Right now I'm looking at differentials and I'm trying to figure out the difference between the 5608 and the 5379. This is all new to me so it will take me a little while to get in the groove. I like the differential that you posted the link to R.C., and if you can confirm that that's really the one that I want I'll order it today. No offense meant and I'm not doubting your recommendation, I'm just not sure if you sent that link as an example or if you think it's the exact piece that I should get. I also like your idea of starting with the differential and taking one step at a time. Once I order the differential I'll start the pre-assembly and get everything laid out and see if I can duplicate that track tensioning system and by the time I get that done the differential should be here and I can look at mounting that. I think that will be the time to look at the parts that Brett recommended and see if we need them. I don't think I'm going to try and do a suspension for the tracks. Maybe later when I get much more experience I might be able to go back and revisit that but for now I want to take the easiest possible route to get to the end product and learn as much as I can along the way. Oh yeah, if I use the planetary gearbox will I still need a transmission like the R2? And if anyone knows of better aftermarket tracks and can post a link to them that would be seriously cool. So thanks again guys, and I'll post photos soon of my progress. I usually get most of my work done on the weekends so I won't be doing much during the week. The job kind of takes it out of me and by the time I get home at night I'm ready to watch a little TV on the couch with the cats and rack out. I'm sure you guys all know the feeling.
Old 12-07-2016, 05:21 AM
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Wouldn't recommend the RC4WD R2 tranny. I have it in the worminator 6X6 and it is VERY slow. Big gear reduction, so lots of torque but no speed. No need to explain anything to us Gary, most important is you take your time and enjoy the build as well as learning some stuff along the way. Have you thought going gearhead motors directly to the sprocket and avoiding the whole idea of a diff. Most of the r/c construction stuff goes this route and their are alot of options out there and you could then use a sabertooth ESC for track control. Now your probably gonna think, hey this is all for 1/14 stuff and yea your right but these machines are between 50-100lbs easy. My excavator weights in at 42 lbs and is on the average size.

https://www.servocity.com/motors-act...ry-gear-motors

http://shop.premacon.com/product_inf...roducts_id=697

http://www.cti-modellbau.de/Baumasch...9-210-214.html

http://www.cti-modellbau.de/Baumasch...8-241-260.html

http://www.cti-modellbau.de/Ersatzteile/

http://www.rcbrmin.com/index.php?mai...roducts_id=456

Last edited by TheBennyB; 12-07-2016 at 05:39 AM.
Old 12-07-2016, 07:35 AM
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That's the kind of motor and gearbox I'll be going with but I'll just be using one and running it through the differential. The one I'm looking at is the one that rivet counter posted the link in his first post above. It's the last link in that post for the macro drill. That looks perfect for what I want to do and should drive the differential just fine. Rivet counter advises, and I agree, to get the differential first and then decide on the motor and gearbox because they come in different ratios.
Old 12-07-2016, 07:36 AM
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I'm at work right now and doing this on my phone so it's rather difficult but when I get home I'll send you a link to the build thread that I'm planning to copy. That way you'll know exactly what I have in mind.
Old 12-07-2016, 08:10 AM
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Yea, cool. Was just thinking eliminating the diff would be less to install and maintain.
Old 12-08-2016, 01:21 AM
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Diffs, there is no right or wrong diff to use as converting the 250 to RC you really are re-inventing the wheel, every conversion has been done different such as the German chap with his chain drives to the sprockets, the best diff would be a heavy duty diff with a 1:1 ratio to simplify working out final gearing, just to make things more complicated you could use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HPI-RS4-RT...wAAOSwvgdW4HHw
Or you could use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Bugsta...MAAOSw~bFWL5~x
Or you could use a pair of MFA motors with planetary gears mounted direct to the sprockets similar to what Tim did with his http://thepanzertrap.com/panzertrap_250.html this method allows independent control of the tracks, BennyB has some good options and as he says the R2 transmission is slow its primarily made for rock crawlers, all this information is going to sound confusing as there are many ways you can go with this conversion.

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